Normandy in the winter, not always everyone's first choice of destination, which was perfect for our visit. The streets and cafés are crowded in the summer, today there was space wherever we went and a warm welcome on a cold winter's day.
Having spent decades visiting Medieval Bayeux, we revisited a few favourite parts; we had a short visit to the 11th century Cathedral. Consecrated in 1077 in front of William the Conqueror, the crypt is all that survives from that period. The stages of building are fascinating and the stained glass breathtaking. You can just walk right in, no charge - but we always leave a donation.
We strolled around the ancient cobbled streets, admiring the old timber buildings and shop windows, then it was time for a warm up!
My café of choice, and it has been for over 20 years, is A La Reine Mathilde, a nod to the Queen of William the Conqueror.
Set on the main street, a Patisserie of renown, visited by local Bayeux residents, not only tourists which is a good sign, and its because its cakes and pastries are just so good!
The outside is inviting; a traditional façade and a window laden with scrumptions treats. Inside the mirrors and chandeliers give a glamourous Versailles vibe, but the decor is true French decor, it's evolved and is authentic, not pristine, but elegantly timeworn. The floral murals are crackled, the thick marble surfaces well used, the mirrors gently foxed, the gilding charmingly dulled with age. But the cakes are fresh and traditional, sometimes with a twist.
The chocolat chaud was a welcome relief from the chill of the icy January day. As we sipped, I noticed many local families coming in to buy a Galette des Rois. So I asked the serving lady why they were doing this in mid January as I thought this was a Epiphany tradition and they were eaten on the 6th January.
Why the delicious Galette des Rois is not just for Epiphany
The galette is a sweet flaky pastry pie filled traditionally with almond paste and part of the celebration of three kings, or Epiphany. There is a fève or little charm in each galette and the person who has it in their slice is King or Queen for the day, they can choose their consort too!
People often like to collect the fèves, usually they are Nativity pieces but nowadays many are Disney, Asterix or Harry Potter themed.
The tradition is that this is a family event so it is celebrated any time in January when the family can all get together. Usually it is the youngest (theoretically the most innocent) member who hands out the slices and therefore indirectly chooses the king!
Other traditons exist, such as the King or Queen has to buy everyone champagne or has to host the Galette des Rois party the following year.
What ever the variation on the tradition, the King or Queen just enjoys a fair and just reign for the day, though I believe jokes and pranks are often involved. This tradition is fun and looked forward to in the French calendar.
They are not just family celebrations, many take place in the work place, my husband's is sceduled for the 18th January, so the date is very flexible, it's the event that is important to the French.
Galette des Rois at the President's palace
A huge 1.2 metre diameter Galette is made for the Elysee Palace, cut at the President's reception. However this one does not have a fève charm inside as it's a tricky one for such a steadfastly Republican country! It is absolutely considered improper to choose a king at the heart of the French Republic, but also it would be a shame to miss such an important French tradition, sounds like a good comprimise to me!
The Galette des Rois tradition is ancient. At the royal court, nobles shared Galette des Rois with the king, the winner of the fève was allowed to ask a favour of the king. This was soon stopped by Louis XIV. Not his style at Versailles!`
What else is there to do in Bayeux?
We skipped a visit to the Bayeux Tapestry this time, created to comemorate the Battle of Hastings in 1066 and the victory of William the Conqueror over King Harold it's a huge embroidery, displayed in a bespoke gallery housed in another historic building. But if you are in the area and haven't stopped by, it's a must see! Its a UNESCO World Hetitage site.
Additionally, there is a lace Conservatoire opposite the cathedral, aiming to keep alive the traditions of lace making that Bayeux is so famous for, a museum tracing the history of Bayeux and the surrounding area and of course a D Day museum, close to the British war cemetery .
The City is very close to the D Day Normandy landing beaches, only a short drive away. We always visit on our own, but you do need a car . If you would prefer, there are many knowledgeabke guides. Just make sure they are registered as the Town Hall checks their knowledge and insurance, as you will be travelling in their vehicle.
We did of course stop off at a couple of Brocante shops and two beautiful antique French treasures were truffled! Bayeux has a monthly Sunday antique market which I find is always worth a visit.
Enjoyed this blog and would like to see my brocante finds and follow my adventures in Paris and wider France?
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