I'm often asked whether fleamarkets operate in winter in Paris. After all, this is a time of year when they generally stop across Northern Europe as the weather grows cold.
But not in Paris. Parisian dealers are made of stronger stuf! I've truffled for treasures in rain, wind, ice and even snow. I never stop striving to find the most beautiful antiques to bring you at Quintessentially French.
I love the atmosphere of a Parisian winter fleamarket, everyone seems more relaxed and the treasures are eclectic and quirky.
Last year in mid winter it was below freezing when I arrived before sunrise at the Porte de Vanves Sunday morning market. On expressing surprise to one of the vendors that it was actually happerning and so busy, of course it was still running he said, we all have Christmas to pay for! Never forget that this is these people's jobs, how they keep a roof over their heads and food on the table.
The sellers wrapped up well, drinking coffee, quite a few with a shot from a hip flask. It was busier than August.
It was so cold, the mirrors and glass had ice crystals on them, see below, visible as the sun came up. It dawned a beautiful blue sky day and it was a magical market. I found some great treasures. But above all every one was happy, making jokes and there was even more of the usual fleamarket banter. It was a memorable morning.
Tell me more about Paris fleamarkets in Winter
This weekend, the third in December, there are still five pop up fleamarkets on Saturday and five on Sunday, and that is in addition to the regular ones at Porte de Vanves, Place d'Aligre and the famous Puces de Saint Ouen.
Please see previous blogs for the details and timings of these regular markets that run in the same place all year. I have several blogs with the details, timings and how to get the most from visiting fleamarkets. To read the first in the series click here
The other sort of markets, the 'pop ups', change their locations every week. At this time of year there are fewer 'vide-greniers' where private sellers clear out attics and sell their own belongings, like a group garage sale. However, all year round, the professional sellers are setting up their tables and selling their Parisian finds!
These 'pop ups' are the addresses I share with you, see the "Good to know" section below.
The week after Christmas the regular markets are theoretically running, I'll be tucked up in the country so won't be there to check it out myself, but from talking to the vendors, they don't really get back going properly until the end of January.
From experience, here are a few things to note though:
In winter, the fleamarkets can be smaller, not always, just don't be disappointed!
They tend to start later (would you like to unpack a large stall of fragiles in the dark and cold?) and finish earlier with the darker evenings. If it's raining or very windy, then that may restrict the range of products the sellers bring to the market and the number of stallholders.
Make sure you wrap up warmly, I find a hat is essential and usually wear some thermals! The wind can whistle along the boulevards of Paris and you get surprisingly cold browsing and stopping regualrly every time you spot a gem.
Of course there is always a café on hand for a warming café au lait and buttery croissant.
Good to know:
The pop up fleamarkets are held around Paris in streets and squares. They can occasionally be cancelled at short notice so I publish the locations the day before on my Instagram and Facebook stories, this means you have an up to date list to take with you in Paris while you go from market to market to shop. It avoids any confusion about which market is on which day. Make sure youre following me on Instagram to see this information and snippets of the fleamarkets.
When you arrive at the location, do have a good look round for the ubiquitous white tents as they may have set up at a bit further down the road in the same area, the detail is at the whim of the organisers!
Even after all this time living in Paris I still occasionally turn up and find no market when one has been advertised. The only thing you can do is shrug your shoulders and say "Puf! C'est la vie!" after all this is Paris and occasionally stuff happens, just jump on the metro and go on to the next one.
What about the Paris Christmas markets?
I would say if you want to go to a Christmas market, go to Strasburg or Germany! The Paris ones are quite touristy, you'll struggle to find many Parisians there.
However, the little one near Notre Dame is quite small and sweet, albeit crowded. And if you like that sort of thing the big funfair in the Tulleries always looks exciting, viewed safely from the outside!.
The market near the Eiffel Tower I've only walked throught once, it's not a pleasant area and do keep your valuables safe there in the crowds.
Overall, Christmas markets really aren't authentic Paris!
Are there fleamarkets in the rest of France in winter?
Fleamarkets in the provinces (except in the mild southern areas) only happen occasionally in winter. They are usually renamed Brocante markets and move inside. These tend to be smaller, more expensive and can be joyless if the venue is not inspiring.
Often the fleamarkets are replaced by Christmas markets, selling toys and gifts.
The professional Déballages still happen too, but these are only open to dealers.
Some of my recent Paris fleamarket finds styled below for you. To shop my Quintessentially French Brocante, authentic treasures shipped worldwide click here
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The flashcode below will take you to my Instagram for some more glimpses of the Paris fleamarkets and my antique finds
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